Makeup Tips from a Pro Part 1 – Kit Essentials

I often work with models who don’t have so much experience with makeup, especially what is appropriate for photoshoots. In a three part series, I would like to share with you some tips on what’s part of my kit, techniques used, and specifics for man vs. woman.

In high school I had the opportunity to learn about beauty, graduating from beauty school before graduating with my diploma.  Few years later I worked as a model, then later as a makeup artist for the subjects that I would shoot. As the photographer, I also do post production on my images and with careful Wacom tablet attention, I create my final masterpiece.

It’s an obsession of mine to create that perfect portrait where skin is flawless yet has pores, smooth gradient blended makeup with high and low dimensions highlghted across the face and body.

I’m going to list the essentials in my makeup kit.  Note that this certainly isn’t the comprehensive collection but just what I find myself using in 90% of situations.

The Essentials In My Kit:

• Revlon Colorstay liquid foundation for oily skin in a light and dark shade, mix together to reach person’s shade.  This stuff is fantastic because it stays put throughout a long shooting day, unbelieveable coverage, natural tones.
• Lumiere mineral makeup loose powder foundations, eyeshadows, bronzers, blushes. This is a boutique makeup line which has usually five or less natural ingredients, extremely high pigments which is usually the first ingredient on the list (no cheap fillers like drug store brands). For sensitive skins like myself, I can’t express how good it feels to put on very pure makeup and know that my skin will not break out afterwards.
• MAC highlight and shadow definition compacts. The play of light across the face that gives it a 3D sense is when a portrait becomes interesting to me. After evening out the skintone with a proper foundation base, you need to put back in the high and lowlights via makeup. You can also contour the face into higher cheekbones, more aquiline nose, hiding of gobble neck.
• MAC blot powder compact. Definitely necessary to cover the typical shine spots of the face, especially over the duration of the shoot.
• Rimmel black and brown kohl eyeliner.  A kohl eyeliner creates a beautiful smudged eyeliner experience that I like.
• MAC liquid eyeliner in black. I love to create a saucy looking cat eye at times and you absolutely must have a good liquid liner and steady hand to achieve this.
• Smashbox shadow primer.  Eyelids have a tendency to get greasy over time so the shadow primer keeps everything in place and prevents that nasty crease which can ruin the look.
• Wet and Wild 666 lipliner. Oh yeah, baby, this is a classic in all MUA kits.  It’s a fantastic neutral shade which can be used as a base for most lipsticks and glosses to keep the edges and color smooth and tight.
• MAC lipsticks – various shades.  I use the classic tubes, the long lasting varieties, the lipglosses, etc.  I like the variety of shades that they come in and texture range.
• MAC lipglass clear.  I haven’t seen a shiny lipgloss comparable to this stuff.  It’s incredibly sticky but who cares when you look this amazing.
• MAC makeup brushes.  I have approximately 30 MAC brushes and a few off brands mixed in.  The artist needs the right tools to dust, paint, and draw.  The brand isn’t so important as is the bristles.  Look for sable hairs, which are the best quality bristles – soft, flexible, yet durable.  These brushes will also be the most expensive.
• Covergirl yellow stick corrector. I use this to cover blemishes and also as a highlighter.
• Shu Uemura or Shiseido Eyelash Curler. It features a flatter curve and silicon rubber squeeze point so that it better grabs all of your lashes and smushes the curl on a resiliant surface. Industry bests.
• Baby wipes, cotton swabs, eye makeup remover. You’re gonna make a mess so anticipate for this.